10 Must have experiences when at ‘VARANASI’

Welcome to the city of Spiritualism

A visit to the ancient city of Varanasi can evoke many sentiments and feelings…but mostly all extreme. It can be extreme devotional ecstasy, cultural delight, artistic elation, gastronomic euphoria or the sudden shock one experiences getting exposure to the sharp yet witty verbal remarks of the locals .Known as Kashi ie. The City of Lights (originated from the word Kashya which means Lights.) since age immemorial, it is known to be the oldest name for the city as it appears in various timeless age old written anecdotes. The city with myriad temples bestows the city also with a name ‘The City of Temples’. As a saint at Kashi narrated, “In the olden days when one sailed down the Ganges towards the city of Kashi at night, the countless temples, the ghats (flight of steps leading to the river), the palace and the numerous impressive structures lining the river imparted a luminous aura that led the city to be known as the city of lights or Kashi”. Whether it referred to the bright radiance of the city or the city being the epicentre of spiritual light, there is some strange pull drawing the mankind like magnet to the city till date.

Kashi:The city of Lights

Over a period of time the people migrating to the prosperous city of Kashi multiplied and the settlement expanded beyond the ghats of the Ganges. The new settlement spilled over the land bordered by two tributaries of Ganga namely Assi River and Varuna River. The town that spanned in-between these two rivers was thus named “VARANASI”.

Varanasi:The town cradled between Varuna and Assi river

With the British colonization which had its head quarter in Calcutta, the destiny of the name Varanasi got a funny twist. Bengalis pronounce ‘V’ as ‘B’. So, Varanasi was spelled something like Boranashi. The British simplified this Bengali version to Banaras or Benaras as the city is renowned today.

Spirit of Freedom

Whichever name one may choose to speak of this city, this mystic city today stands as the hub of Spiritualism: The land of Sanskrit (an Indo-Aryan language) and Sanskriti (Culture). Varanasi today is also known as the ‘Cultural Capital of India’.

Through my eyes the best of the experiences one must enjoy when visiting Varanasi are:

 1) Kashi Vishwanath Temple: Welcome to the city famed to have the first and the oldest of all the existing 12 Swayambhu(self-manifested) Jyotirlings .It is believed that Lord Shiva himself resides in this city to spread the message of peace and harmony to the mankind. Shiva , the main deity is called ‘ Vishwanath’ – the creator and ruler of the Universe.

This ancient temple is just a 10 minute walk from the legendary Dashashwamedh Ghat (Folklore has it that Lord Bramha himself built this Ghat to welcome Lord Shiva to Kashi).Entering the premise of the temple crisscrossing the labyrinth of Varanasi and making our way out from the ocean of devotees we reached the main temple which shone bright with gold plated dome and spire. The positivity of the sanctum sanctorum charged up the soul.

Gold plated dome and spire of Kashi Vishwanath Temple

This temple was constructed by the monarch of Indore, Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar who was a devout Shiva devotee. The original temple was besides the current temple. It was demolished many a times by Mughal Invaders but was reconstructed at the same site again before Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb got the temple razed to construct a mosque at the very site. One can easily make out that the mosque has been built on the broken remains of the old temples. The present temple complex still houses the huge Nandi (Shiva’s Vahana) statue which was part of the original temple. Next to the Nandi there is a well known as Gyanvapi Well (Well of Knowledge).It is said that during the invasion by Aurangzeb’s army, the priests of the temple hid the sacred Shivling in the well to prevent them from destroying it.

2)Aarti at Ganga Ghat : Every evening  as dusk descends over the horizon of Varanasi, a spectacular Ganga Aarti, a ceremonial homage is offered to Goddess Ganga  by the magnificent ghats of the river Ganges. The aarti is performed on an elevated platform by a group of 5 or 7 young pundits(priests),all draped in cream and saffron coloured silk robes paying their reverence to Mother Ganges for gifting life and sustenance to mankind .

The spectacular Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat

 

The aarti begins with blowing of a conch shell, continues with vedic chants, waving of incense sticks, flower petals and garlands in elaborate patterns and circling of different types of large flaming lamps that create a bright hue against the darkened sky while striking impressive reflections against the flowing river water. The aarti brings the evening alive with the rhythmic chants of hymns and clang of cymbals, bells and pellet drum (damru). A must see experience to enjoy a devotional evening by the river.(You may like to watch the video on my instagram account- miraclesulagna)

All set for Ganga Aarti at Assi Ghat

Aarti at Dashashwamedh ghat is very popular. Sea of people flock the steps of the Ghat to witness the vibrant prayer being offered to Ganges. One has to reach as early as 5pm to occupy space at the ghat to enjoy the aarti that commences at 6.45pm. Personally I loved the Aarti at Assi Ghat. Assi ghat is a very neatly kept, less crowded Ghat where the same Aarti can be internalised peacefully. After the aarti we prayed to Ganga Maiyya (Mother) and offered flowers and lit earthen lamp to the river.

Top left:Offering of flowers and earthen lamp to goddess Ganga. Top right:Aarti being performed with a huge flaming multilayered lamp.Bottom:Blessing of Agnidev (Firegod) after aarti.

Beautiful tourist enjoying an early morning boat ride wearing traditional Banarasi silk 

3)Boatride at dawn break on the Ganges: A must on your itinerary to experience magical kiss of cool breeze and enjoy the sunrise while cruising the calm waters of river Ganga. We took an enchanting boat ride of approximately 3 kilometres from Assi Ghat to Dashashwamedh ghat watching prominent ghats like Chet Singh ghat, Tulsi ghat, Ganga Mahal ghat, Darbhanga ghat and a lot more. As we sailed down the river, jingle of bells and devotional songs sung in the temples lining the ghats soothed our mind so effortlessly. Truly a relaxing ride to remember .And yes don’t forget to watch for beautiful murals and graffiti on the walls of the ghats.

Yours Truly rowing the boat on Ganges as the oarsman smiles looking at my effort to move the boat

4)Life on the Ghats: Personally I feel that the ‘Ghats’ or the riverfront steps that stretches for miles together on the west bank of Ganges is something very unique.

Ghats by the Ganges

Words can never justify the beauty of observing the ghats and the way the lives of the local people are intertwined with it. It’s interesting to note how each ghat has a history or legend and a purpose for its existence.

Enjoying the aura of the Ghats

 

A stroll on the Ghats or a boat-ride reveals this facet. Our boatman Gauri Shankar glided us through fascinating stories and history of Ganga and Ghats of Varanasi.

Daily way of life on Dashaswamedh Ghat

Priests on Dashashwamedh Ghat

We saw many locals and pilgrims taking spiritual dip and bath in the river. Some priests were seen performing rituals while saints thronged the ghats. In the shade of a flat topped leaf/bamboo umbrella some people were seen shaving off their hairs, others reading some scriptures while few locals washed and cooked by the ghats. Prayers were offered at various temples and aroma of burnt camphor was wafting in the air.

Charm of the Ghats round the clock

We watched groups of people doing yoga early in the morning. Gauri informed us that Yoga and meditation is a regular sight on the ghats since the declaration of International Yoga day. He also expressed his immense happiness on the cleanliness initiatives for Ganga and Varanasi taken up in the recent years that has made the city further tourist friendly. It was a spiritually enlightening experience by the river ghats.

 

5)Getting lost in the lanes of Varanasi: I sincerely suggest a walk through the enigmatic lanes and gullies of Varanasi. The real flavour of old Varanasi lies in there.

Lively and colourful lanes of Varanasi

We enjoyed walking by the colour contrasted homes, temples, shops in the lanes near Manikarnima Ghat. Be prepared to share the lanes with gigantic cows, bulls and energetic monkeys. To beat the heat we enjoyed having fresh mango pomegranate lassi at Blue Lassi shop and walked down to Manikarnika ghat.

Essence of Manikarnika Ghat in a frame:Wood to light up the pyre of dead and the blue Ganges afar which is door for liberation and attaining salvation

Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats are the two ghats where dead bodies are cremated and believed to attain salvation. The sight of dead bodies being brought to the crematorium was slightly unnerving but few moments at Manikarnika kund (a shakti peeth) at the ghat distracted us.

Glimpses of Manikarnika Ghat,The Manikarnika Kund and the lanes leading to the Ghat

6)Watching the weaver’s of Varanasi spin magic: Banaras is known for its exquisite Banarasi weave. Once at Varanasi don’t miss the opportunity to see how the magic is spun. We headed to a place called Lallapur nicknamed Mughal town by the local to watch Banarasi silk sarees being flawlessly crafted both on handloom and powerloom machines.

Top:Powerlooms weaving Banarasi Silk Sarees,Bottom:Handloom Banarasi Silk Saree being woven by a weaver.

The deft artisans patiently explained us the difference between the silk types like kanjeevaram, Gorod and Muga and later introduced us to variety of Banasari silk. I brought a few Banasari sarees as souvenir. If at Varanasi do get your share of souvenir too but just beware to shop from authentic stores or looms as plethora of counterfeit products rule the market. If you have time on your hand visit the weaver’s village Sarai Mohana which is few kilometres from Banaras city.(You may like to watch the video of loom  on my instagram account- miraclesulagna)

Watching speedy flawless weaving of Banarasi saree on power loom

7)Experiencing the spiritual and cultural aura: Varanasi is undisputed monarch of philosophy. Spirituality, mysticism. People from far and wide visit the city to seek inner peace. Some find it in balancing and harmonizing the body, mind and emotions through Yoga and others by getting lost in the synchronized beats of Varanasi’s music, dance and drama forms or in the rich traditions of akharas and traditional sports.

Yoga on the Ganga Ghat

Varanasi ,known as birth place of classical music, history of which stretches far from the vedic era offers gems like Banarasi Thumri, Dadra, Bhairavi, Tarana, Sargam, Kirtan, Qauwali, Kathagayan, Bhajan and much more.

Classical music at Varanasi

Local people suggested me to visit BHU to experience Yoga and various art forms in its campus. At the campus I was informed that every Thursday starting from August to February BHU organises shows to present Varanasi’s cultural traditions.

8)Savouring the lip smacking delicacies : Strom straight to Kachori Gali to have Banarasi style breakfast of Banarasi Kachori with Aloo Subzi to go with a plate of sweet-syrupy Jalebis. Savour delicious Rasgullas at Dashashwamedh ghat or taste yummy chaat at Deena chaat situated on Dashashwamedh road. Get lost in the sweetness of Makkhan Malaiyyo at Godowlia Chowk. Keep yourself cool with the famous Lassi near Ramnagar fort or Blue Lassi at Kachowdi Gali near Manikarnika ghat. And don’t miss out ending the day on the ultimate munch of Banarasi Pan.

Banarasi Flavour (Top Row:Pomegranate Lassi,Makkhan Malaiyyo;Middle Row:Kachori and Jalebi;Last Row:Rasgulla,Banarasi Pan)

9)Banaras Hindu University,Varanasi : Known as the Temple of learning , this university spread over 1300 acres of land and was founded in 1916 by  Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya (freedom fighter, social activist and educationist).The university has produced great artists ,scientists and scholars like Harivanshrai Bachchan, Bhupen Hazarika, Nikesh Arora, Ram Charan and many more. Visit the campus to feel the aura of learning and spend some time at Bharat Kala Bhavan and the new Birla Vishwanath Temple.

New Vishwanath Temple at BHU

10)Relish moments of peace at Sarnath: A drive of 10 kilometres from Varanasi is Sarnath. Here Gautam Buddha taught his first sermon after attaining enlightenment at Bodh Gaya (Bihar) which makes Sarnath one of the 4 most important Buddhist pilgrimages in India.

Top:At Bodhi Tree Complex,Bottom:The Pious Bodhi Tree

In Mulagandha Kuty Vihara resides the relic of Lord Buddha .Experience tranquillity at the Bodhi tree complex and Dhamek Stupa to feel blessed by Buddha.

Top:Mulagandha Kuty Vihara ,Middle:Entrance to the statue of Lord Buddha peaching sermon,Bottom:Dhamek Stupa

And last but not the least…keep your eyes open for unique temples, people and way of life at Kashi…You never know what might cross your way.

Unique Temple dedicated to Khichdi Baba

Temple dedicated to Lord Jupiter

Some Handy Tips for Varanasi Visit

• Use OLA cabs instead of local transportation. It is economical and time saving.
• Don’t waste your time by visiting Ramnagar fort

• Watch Ganga Aarti at Assi Ghat if you want to peacefully enjoy it

• If you wish to watch the Mangala aarti at Kashi vishwanath temple, get the ticket from gate no. 2, a day in advance

• Purchase handloom items only from authentic stores or looms where weaving is done

How to reach Varanasi

• The city is well connected by roads and rail from major cities

• Varanasi has its own airport- Lal Bahadur Shashtri Airport